Before I tell you why my answer to the question is “It depends on what you mean by table scraps” let me tell you a little story.

While chatting with a friendly meter reader the other day, I found out he’s a fellow pet parent. He told me all about his dogs and his kids and how they all get along great. He also shared a story about his cat who is “huge” and eats everything in sight. My ears perked up. Obesity is a serious and, unfortunately, common health problem in pets, and I was eager to hear what was going on.

A few days ago, he and his wife enjoyed a great meal at a local seafood restaurant where the portions are enormous. Though his dinner was delicious, he had one of his crab cakes wrapped up to take home. He broke it up into pieces and put it in his cat’s dish, but go figure. Sophie just turned her nose up. He was amazed since she normally eats “everything and anything he gives her.”

I smiled and joked that maybe Sophie knew there was something in that crab cake that wasn’t good for her. Unfortunately, cats and dogs don’t know that some foods might make them sick or kill them. It’s very possible, though, that there were onions or onion powder in that crab cake, and it’s a good thing Sophie didn’t eat it.

Onions and onion powder—even in small amounts—are toxic for cats and dogs. Even traces of onion can cause problems, and it can show up in places you wouldn’t expect, like gravies, sauces, and dips. Soup mixes and seasoning mixtures. Ketchup. Baked beans. Potato and pasta salad. Spaghetti sauce. Meatloaf. Turkey stuffing. Frozen prepared meals.

Some other common foods you might have in your table scraps are overly fatty or greasy foods, chocolate, grapes, and raisins. Avocados. Garlic. Alcoholic beverages. Salt. Artificial sweeteners such as Xylitol. None of these (or many others) are healthy foods for pets and, if they eat enough, it can kill them. Even small amounts of onion powder can cause severe anemia in a cat.

With that in mind, the answer to the question “Are table scraps OK for my pet?” is a definite NO. Especially if you have young kids or a large family with friends and relatives coming and going, it’s wise to make NO TABLE SCRAPS FOR PETS a very firm rule and keep Fluffy or Fido out of the kitchen or dining room. There is no sense in taking chances with your beloved cat or dog.

That said, here’s why I also say, “It depends.” It depends on what the table scraps are in your family, and it can also depend on what you mean by table scraps. For some people, “table scraps” also means “human food” in general and vice-versa.

If you’re familiar with raw diets or home-made pet food, you already know that many foods we humans eat are just great for dogs and cats. Plain-cooked meat or poultry—without bones—is a healthy treat for both dogs and cats. Certain raw fruits and vegetables can be a wonderful part of any dog’s diet. The important thing is knowing what your furry friend’s needs are so he gets the right balance of nutrients for optimum health. Too many table scraps without a plan, even if the food is healthy and pet-safe overall, could mean less of an appetite for the commercially prepared foods that are balanced with your pet’s nutrition in mind.

It can also result in overweight or obesity, as in Sophie the cat’s case. While overweight and overeating can sometimes be related to an underlying health issue, behavioral issues or situation at home, most times it’s due to the pet consuming too many “table scraps” and leftovers offered by indulgent pet parents. Crab cakes are definitely not on any list of acceptable treats for cats or dogs, not only because of possible onions but because there are so many variations in recipes, fat content, what kind of fat, and so on.

Plus, although calorie requirements vary from cat to cat, one crab cake—depending on ingredients and size—could easily double or triple what Sophie needs in one day.

No matter how much our beloved pets are truly a member of our families, and even though they seem like our own kids sometimes, remember that they’re not human. What we eat isn’t always what they should eat.

Unless you’ve done plenty of research and know the facts about feeding your pet anything other than a high-quality, commercially prepared pet food, proceed with caution. If you’re not sure what human foods are safe for your pet, if you don’t have time to check ingredient labels on everything you eat, and if you don’t have time to do some research and reading, then just say no to table scraps.

If you found this article helpful, you might also like  Human foods that could be poisonous for pets

and What is the best food for my dog?

For additional information:

A poison safe home

Human foods for cats?

Feline obesity

Comments are always welcome!

©Leah McClellan

My cat Eliot's appetite is always a barometer for how he's feeling. Here he's devouring his food a few days after hospitalization.

Part Two: My Personal Decision

As the pet parent to six beloved dogs and cats over the last 18 years, the most heart-wrenching decisions I’ve had to make revolved around my cat Eliot and my dog Hans.

Eliot suffered a stroke almost five years ago due to a careless medication error on the part of a new vet. Another vet was able to get him past the worst of it, and a few days in a large university animal hospital brought him around.

I was pressured to euthanize, and I was shocked. The rehearsed words of several veterinarians still echo in my brain:

He has less than 1% chance of surviving

He’s going to be different

He won’t be the same

He’ll need a lot of care

Death at home is messy

When I picked him up, he was soaking wet, reeking of urine, and tangled up in IV tubes as he twirled around in frantic circles in a tiny wire cage. While removing his tubes and needles, the attendant hurriedly explained that she had just bathed him and that he’d peed once again.

Eliot cried pitifully as I gathered him up in my arms and wrapped him in a huge fluffy bath towel. His little paws were clutching at my neck as we stood in the corridor with the vet as he rehearsed the options like a recording. He kept repeating the same script, over and over, and I had no time to think.

I finally made a snap decision: “If Eliot’s going to die, he’s going to die at home. Where do I pay?”

He cried all the way home and hid his face under my chin as I rocked and cradled him against my chest. It took a few weeks of round-the-clock nursing and several visits to specialists, but it wasn’t long before he was hobbling around the house, getting stronger, enjoying his cuddles and his nummies again, nibbling on my house plants, and hanging around my feet wherever I went.

My dog Hans was diagnosed with cancer only a few months later. Once again, I was faced with decisions, only this time they were spread out over a much longer period of time.

How much time, energy, and money do I have to spend?

What can I do?

How will I know when it’s time to euthanize?

At that point, all I knew was that “everyone” puts a dog or cat to sleep at a certain point during an illness, but I had no reference points, no experience, nothing on which to base the decision. It was just an assumption, but something didn’t feel right. I had no solid belief about the matter, and I don’t like to make assumptions, so I investigated.

I spent many long hours reading and researching everything available about canine cancer, treatments, and options as well as end of life decisions. At the same time, I was still learning how to care for Eliot: reading lab reports, administering subcutaneous fluids, figuring out the best way to give him a pill.

Well-meaning friends on a support forum told me I would know when it’s time, and that my dog or cat would look at me in a special way and I’d just know. I gazed into Hans’ eyes every day, and all I saw was his will to live. I only saw life, not impending death. When I cuddled Eliot and his purrs vibrated through my chest, I got the same thing. They weren’t thinking about death. They weren’t feeling sorry for themselves. They were living in the moment, and their will to live was overriding discomfort or temporary pain or changes in their routines. Their assumption was that they were alive and that this was life but, like a fish in water, they didn’t question it.

Maybe my friends meant something more serious, I thought, like when an animal is writhing in pain, or something like that.

It didn’t take long for my beliefs to solidify. When I adopted each dog and cat in my animal family, I vowed to care for them to the best of my abilities, to keep them safe from harm, to love them, and to give them the happiest life that I possibly could. I hadn’t promised to spare them the normal process of life, growth, decline, and death. I wouldn’t ever let them suffer, but I wasn’t going to willfully take away their right to live their lives and get old or sick and die according to their terms.

My final decision is something like this: I will only euthanize if

• Bad days exceed good ones
• Pain or suffering cannot be relieved
• Happiness is no longer experienced regularly
• No interest in previous pleasures (toys, bones, walks, hugs, cuddles, kisses, car rides)
• No communication with me (with eyes, purrs, sounds, physical movements, licking, head-butting, etc)
• All resources for care have been exhausted in which case pain medication, if or as needed, will be given. If it’s ineffective or interferes with quality of life, and if the animal is in pain, euthanasia may be the right thing to do
• Sudden extreme situations, such as seizures that can’t be stopped or a bad accident, may require quick decisions to prevent suffering

My decision is largely based on my unwillingness to take the life of any living creature. It’s a personal, spiritually-based decision and, as a vegetarian for most of my adult life, I had some ideas already formed about my beliefs. It took a lot more reading and thinking, though, before I came up with a practical plan for my pets that I could work with and live with.

I know everyone’s different, and I’d never begrudge someone’s decision about their pet, as long as it’s made out of love and caring for the animal. And I wouldn’t hesitate to euthanize when an animal is suffering and there’s no other choice.

But I do have choices. It doesn’t seem like it, though, when vets assume that euthanasia is the next step. I’ve learned that, for many people, it is the next step, but what came first? Vets who don’t discuss viable options or people who want vets to euthanize? It’s hard to say, but there are options. Just like my animals have the right to live out their lives, I also have the right to support them in it, no matter what a veterinarian says. All I need to know is, what are my options?

Read more on what the options are and check out some guidelines for determining Quality of Life in Part One: How will I know when it’s time to euthanize my pet?

Comments are always welcome.

©Leah McClellan

When your beloved dog or cat becomes seriously ill, you’ll probably have to make many choices concerning care. One of the most painful decisions you’ll have to make is this:

When is the right time to euthanize? How will I know when it’s time?

Euthanasia–also called putting to sleep or putting down–is a common practice which helps a sick or injured animal to pass away gently without suffering. It’s usually done by a veterinarian in the office or animal hospital and sometimes during a home visit. A sedative may be injected first followed by medication that causes the animal to become irreversibly unconscious and die.

There are no right or wrong decisions when they’re made with the animal’s best interest in mind. There are options, however, and a few possible paths to take:

• Care for your pet conservatively. That is, make sure he’s comfortable and happy for as long as possible with little intervention. You might try inexpensive medication or treatment if recommended and, when the animal’s quality of life shows signs of decline or suffering, euthanize. This option may be chosen especially when financial means are limited.

• Another option is as above, though you may go further with care but stop when it becomes too expensive or time-intensive. For example, you might try a short course of chemotherapy for cancer treatment if prognosis is good, but you would say no to surgery or amputation if you just can’t afford it. At this point, euthanasia is chosen when the quality of life is in question or to prevent any serious decline.

• Yet another option is to provide all possible forms of treatment and care, regardless of time and effort involved or financial cost. At some point, if the animal is suffering in any way and quality of life is questionable, you elect to euthanize.

• Finally, “pet hospice” or palliative care is an option for those who are either opposed to euthanasia or who prefer to allow an animal to die naturally, if possible, while providing various degrees of care and pain management to prevent suffering, as needed.

There are many variables and degrees of care possible, and these are just general guidelines. It’s important to discuss options with your veterinarian and all family members, including children, though parents should take the lead in decision-making. Remember that these decisions are very emotional for many of us, and it’s even possible to change our minds after the initial shock has worn off or information is digested.

No matter what you choose, some guidelines to measuring quality of life in your pet can be very helpful. How can you know if an animal is suffering or in pain? Some believe that animals instinctively don’t show pain or discomfort so predators can’t easily take advantage of them. Other schools of thought propose that animals don’t feel pain as acutely as humans do because of their different nervous systems or psychological reasons; human pain and suffering may be compounded by how we think about it and respond to it emotionally. I think it’s a little of both.

Here are some guidelines that may help during your difficult time.

Dr. Alice Villalobos offers a Quality of Life Scale that many pet parents have found invaluable when faced with decisions.

Doc Truli at VirtuaVet offers excellent Pet Quality of Life guidelines

The ASPCA: End-of-Life Care FAQ

From Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine: When is it time to say goodbye?

Read about my own personal decision in When is it time to euthanize?

Comments are always welcome.

©Leah McClellan

Despite being told that he had less than a 1% chance of survival after two days of intensive care, I insisted that we give him at least twenty-four hours more. I had a very close relationship with this cat, and I had a gut feeling he wanted to live and would, if only I could get through to him. I visited Eliot as often as I was allowed.

I brought clippings of dog fur and cat fur from other members of my pet family. Canned tuna fish. A can opener. A rubber ball with a bell in it.  Canned cat food and dry. A grooming brush. Anything with familiar smells and sounds that would stimulate his senses enough to help him regain consciousness.

One time, I brought his big, blue, overstuffed fuzzy bed with plenty of fur on it. With the bed on my lap, the technician laid Eliot on it, and I supported his head like a baby. I sat outside his little cage in the hospital, rocking him back and forth, talking to him, petting him, and head-butting him as I always do. I held a little glob of his canned food on my fingers and waved it back and forth slowly, scolding in a mock-stern voice: “Ellie, don’t you want your nummies? I know you’re hungry; don’t give me this load of crap that you’re not. I came all the way over here to bring you your favorite nummies so you’d better wake up.”  He’s gentle, needy, and cuddly but he’s also bossy and independent–like any cat–and he doesn’t like being told what to do. I figured if I scolded him he’d rebel and wake up.

And he did. He nearly took my finger off in the process, too, as he went for the food. I quickly called the technician to make sure it was OK for him to eat. They were amazed that Eliot had come around, and they reassured me that eating was fine.

After the excitement died down and Eliot had his fill (it wasn’t much), I rocked him and petted him for a little while longer.

Suddenly, my thighs were warm and wet. Ellie had peed so much that it dripped right through his bed and all over me. I called the technician and told her she might as well throw the bed out.

“Oh no,” she said. “We’ll wash it right here for you.”

“Won’t it stink of kitty pee forever?”

“Nope. Vinegar takes the smell right out. We order it by the case.”

Sure enough, when I picked up Eliot to transfer him to a university hospital the next day, his beautiful bed was as good as new.

Eliot recovered from what turned out to be a stroke, and he’s still with us. Though he’s partially handicapped and mostly blind now, he’s been a happy kitty until recently. I’ve had to stock up on big jugs of vinegar because he’s having litter box issues, and I’ve been doing laundry like crazy.

At first I was scrubbing and shampooing the downstairs family room rug with vinegar and mopping the kitchen floor with it as well. As he got sicker, though, I confined him to the laundry/utility room, which is about the size of the average kid’s bedroom. It has a tile floor, but there’s still the matter of the blankets and towels for his bed.

Turns out he’s had an unusual infection, which his vet discovered by doing a culture, and he’s also constipated. He’s had a long course of antibiotics, and he’s completely well now as far as that goes. The constipation is challenging, though, and every time he gets stopped up he avoids the litter box.

And that means vinegar because it works. If it didn’t, my house would reek of cat urine, and you know how strong that smell is.

It’s like a miracle cure, and I don’t know what I’d do without it. Fortunately Eliot is using the litter box most of the time now but, when he doesn’t, I just wash the towels I’m using for his bed with a full cup or two of white or apple cider vinegar. Either one works. It’s great for my own laundry too, including the jeans he peed on in the hospital.

I also use vinegar for mopping floors. Not long after Eliot started his recovery from the stroke, one of my dogs was diagnosed with cancer, and I did a lot of research. I realized that Lysol and Pine-Sol and any other kind of “sol” wasn’t a good idea for dogs to lick when they find a crumb on the floor. Since then, I only use vinegar for routine cleaning in pet areas, which is most of my house. Though white vinegar is cheaper, sometimes I buy the apple cider vinegar since I like the smell. Both are very inexpensive, and a cup or so in a gallon of water does the trick.

My house smells like a tossed salad sometimes but it goes away quickly, and it sure beats the smell of kitty pee. I don’t know what I’d do without vinegar. And as soon as Eliot’s  constipation is under control (it’s trial and error) and he’s back to consistent litter box use, he’ll get his fluffy blue bed back. And if he pees on it again? No problem.

If you found this article helpful, you might like this one: Pumpkin for constipation

Comments are always welcome.

©Leah McClellan

What are you going to call that new puppy or kitten or older dog or cat you’ve adopted? The possibilities are endless.

If you’re like many dog lovers, you’ll go with something common and cute, like Max or—surprise, surprise—Bella. Molly ranks high in popularity as does Buddy, Jack, and Lady. Smokey and Shadow are popular names for cats along with Molly, Bella, and Tiger.

My sister Janet (above) recently adopted a gorgeous German Shepherd Dog puppy and, at a loss for a name, sent me an email asking for help.

I looked at all the pictures carefully. This 7-week old puppy is very strong-looking, serious, and sure of himself—there’s something in his eyes that says he has a job to do. Look how sturdy he is! His face is already mature-looking; seems he’s spotted an intruder but he’s barely bigger than a boot. A cute name wouldn’t be appropriate. A common name wouldn’t work.

A few minutes later, another email came in. She had the name: Kane.

Perfect. I don’t know about the middle name: Lucas. Kane Lucas. Sounds great but Kane alone is plenty. Strong. A little different but nothing whimsical or complicated.

Names bring different images to mind, and they’re often a reflection of the human personality more than the animal’s. No matter how much you love the Twilight Saga, for example, naming a cat or dog Bella will always refer to Bella Swan of vampire fame. It’s a lovely name, and it also means beautiful in Italian, but for most people it will bring to mind a movie or a book series rather than give an idea of the pet’s personality. Not surprising that it was the most popular pet name in 2009.

Kane only reminds me of the film Citizen Kane and, since I barely remember what that’s about, the title itself sounds good. What does it remind you of? Lucas sounds nice, but it brings to mind Luke Skywalker or the song Luka by Suzanne Vega, a 1987 hit single about domestic violence. But who remembers that? Kane Lucas is great.

Here are some sites with lots of ideas for names in case you’re stuck.

Most popular pet names of 2009

Fun pet names

2009′s most popular (and most unusual) pet names!

Unusual pet names could be in the classics!

Animal Planet: Most popular + wackiest pet names of 2009

Top 10 male and female cat names

Twilight fans make ‘Bella’ the most popular dog name of 2009

Have you recently adopted a new animal friend? How did you pick a name? If your dog or cat is older, do you have a fun story to tell? Send me an email and tell me a little bit about your furry friend. I’ll email you back, you can send me a photo (or tell me where to find one), and I’ll post your story. Or just tell your story in the comments below!

cforms contact form by delicious:days

One compost pile is within the bounds of my garden, which is also fenced in, but the other is close to the house, by the shed. This is what I call my “active” pile because it’s the one that gets all the fresh stuff: kitchen scraps, grass clippings, leaves, and so on.

Whenever I dump my scraps from the kitchen—banana peels, coffee grounds, old grapes, cantaloupe rinds, onion peels, apple cores, and the like—I bury them within the decomposing pile and cover it all with grass clippings or straw or anything that will hide the scraps and help disguise the smell. Why?

I have two dogs who use the yard regularly, and if they suddenly decided to become compost pile marauders, we might have some serious problems. There could also be a lost cat in the neighborhood who might decide that decaying vegetables are better than nothing for dinner.

Turns out that some of the foods that I enjoy regularly could make dogs and cats severely ill or even kill them. Grapes, onions, garlic, avocados, mushrooms, and coffee grounds—all of these end up in my compost pile (albeit in small amounts) along with peach and plum pits and all sorts of vegetable matter, some of which is harmless to any animal. But some of it can be deadly.

Indoors, I’m careful with other foods, like raisins (which I love), chocolate, tea bags, alcoholic beverages of any kind, and nuts. I’m even careful about houseplants, like my dieffenbachia but also poinsettias and bulb flowers like hyacinth. One of my cats, in particular, likes to go after houseplants so I have to be careful.

While raisins, grapes, onions, and chocolate are among the worst when it comes to toxic effects on pets, there are other hazards from foods people eat, like small bones from cooked chicken or turkey. Fish bones. Beef or other large bones can splinter and cause damage to the intestines when ingested (raw bones are a different matter). Even baby food chicken or turkey—which I occasionally give to my cats when they’ve been sick—can have onion powder in it. Read labels carefully.

There has been a lot of news and talk about the benefits of feeding our pets so-called “human food” as opposed to only commercially prepared kibble or canned food, and I agree with much of it. But caution and knowledge are absolutely essential.

The most important thing to remember is that the digestive systems of our beloved pets are not the same as ours, and what we enjoy on a regular basis and think is healthy could kill them. Even if you never feed your dog or cat anything that remotely resembles human food, be careful of items left out in the kitchen or dropped on the floor, well-meaning children who might offer “treats” to pets, and compost piles, like mine (I’m thinking of getting a plastic, fully-enclosed compost bin, like the one in the photo, just to be on the safe side).

Here are several extensive lists of poisonous foods and substances from reliable sources. Check them out, learn them, memorize them, and share them with your family and friends. You’ll be glad you did.

Foods potentially poisonous to pets

Foods to avoid feeding your dog

People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets

If you found this article helpful, you might enjoy this one:  What should I feed my dog?

© Leah McClellan

Have a story to share or tips that readers could benefit from? Feel free to comment any time.

In either case, you probably went to the grocery store, searched around, and finally found a big can of 100% pure pumpkin—not pie filling—in the baking section. When you got home, you measured out the correct amount and gave it to Tabby or Molly who, hopefully, licked it up eagerly.

Then you might have wondered how long the pumpkin would keep in the refrigerator before it goes bad.

My cat Eliot tends to get very constipated due to his advanced age—he’s eighteen. His vet ruled out any other problems and suggested we try pumpkin, though he cautioned me that it sometimes has an opposite effect and to watch carefully.

Pumpkin has turned out to be a real help for Eliot. I give him about a half-tablespoon almost every day, depending on how things are moving along.

But what to do with all that pumpkin? At first I divided it up and froze it in several plastic containers. I took one out of the freezer as needed and kept it in the refrigerator. But that meant digging out the frozen amount that I needed and heating it or waiting for it to thaw. I realized I could plan carefully to make sure I always have some thawed in the refrigerator and ready every time Eliot needs some, but that’s a lot of work as far as I’m concerned.

I finally came up with a plan that’s working out great. Here’s what I do.

1. Drop measured spoonfuls of pumpkin on a nonstick cookie sheet.
2. Cover with plastic wrap and place in freezer.
3. When pumpkin nuggets are completely frozen, scrape them into a storage container or a plastic freezer storage bag and pop them back into the freezer.
4. When it’s time to give the pumpkin, remove a frozen nugget and place on a microwavable plate.
5. Microwave on a reheat or high setting for a few seconds or until liquid runs out from under the pumpkin but it still holds its shape.
6. Mash frozen and thawed bits together with a fork; blending will bring it to about room temperature (check temperature carefully before feeding to your pet).

You could also use an ice cube tray, especially if you have a large dog who requires more pumpkin than a small spoonful. Just measure the amount your vet recommends into each section of the ice cube tray. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. Pop out the pumpkin cubes when fully frozen, put them in a storage container or a baggie, and place in the freezer.

Problem solved. Now I have a no-fuss, no bother, no waste system for giving Eliot his  pumpkin and so do you.

If this article was helpful you might like this one too: How to give a cat a pill

Have tips to share? Leave a comment or email me anytime. I’d love to hear from you.

© Leah McClellan

If you’re fortunate, you may have some time to think and make plans concerning what to do with your pet’s body. If your pet passes on suddenly, though, and if this is your first experience with the death of a pet, you might not know which direction to turn.

It’s a good idea to make decisions long before you need to so you’re prepared. It’s also important to include every member of the family in discussions, to allow for differences of opinion if there are any, and to remember that it may take some time to come to a decision that everyone can agree upon. Making sure everyone is informed about the options is a good place to start.

Depending on individual beliefs, preferences, or past experiences, there are three main options.

Some people prefer to let their veterinarian deal with their pet’s body after his or her passing. For many of us, the life of the beloved pet is what was important, and the pet’s physical body has little meaning after death. Check with your vet on his or her policies, practices, and fees, if any.

Burial, whether at home or at a pet cemetery, is another popular option. Some people have always buried a family pet in their backyard, if they have one. This is common, especially for small pets such as cats, birds, hamsters, and the like. However, it’s illegal in many areas, and of course it’s impossible if you don’t own a home with a yard. It can also be a lot of work since the animal must be buried at least two-three feet deep or more. This can be impractical, especially in the case of a large dog or a horse.

Many people choose to inter their pet’s body at a special pet cemetery. Your veterinarian may know of several or your local humane societies and shelters may refer you.

Cremation is another option that has become very popular in recent years. It’s not as costly as you might think, and many crematoriums provide a special area where you can have a service for your pet or have time alone to say good-bye. You can choose a private cremation, which means your pet is cremated alone and you can take the ashes with you. Or your pet is cremated with other pets, and ashes are combined. Pet crematoriums typically offer a wide array of urns and boxes. Your vet’s office may have information available, and they may even coordinate all the services for you.

Keep in mind that there is no right or wrong when making this very personal decision. It’s even possible that you may change your mind several times before finally knowing what feels right for you. If you’re unsure, it can be helpful to do some reading and talk with friends or family members who understand. In the end, the most important thing to remember is how much love, joy, fun, and happiness you and your beloved pet shared together.

For additional reading on this subject, check out The Final Farewell and Final Care of Your Pet’s Body

© Leah McClellan

No matter what technique you use, here are some helpful tips:

Do check with your veterinarian on all aspects of your cat’s care.

Do make pill-time a positive experience. Pick a time when you and your cat are relaxed, give lots of gentle hugs, and speak soothingly. Tell kitty you have his best interests in mind and you know he doesn’t like this. The exact words don’t matter, and most of us agree that the cat won’t understand exactly what you’re saying. Cats do, however, understand tone of voice and intentions, and our task is to convince him that our intentions are good.

Do trim your cat’s claws beforehand if needed.

Do take your cat to a room with a door you can close, especially if you have other pets or small children who may be a distraction. This is especially important if kitty spits the pill out; you don’t want another animal (or child) to eat it. You also don’t want him to run away and hide.

Do give kitty his favorite treat afterward (ask your vet if food with the pill is OK). He may start to look forward to pill time if he knows he’ll get his reward. Make sure it’s something kitty really loves, like cream cheese, tuna, or prepared cat treats.

Don’t make it a power struggle. If you’re having trouble, it’s better to let the cat go than get frustrated or upset. Take a break, give plenty of hugs, and try again.

If you have trouble with an especially resistant cat, try this: kneel over the cat (one knee on each side) with his head facing forward (in the direction you’re facing) and press your non-dominant hand against his chest firmly. Cross your ankles behind his rear legs so he can’t back out. Sit on him very lightly, and pet him as you speak gentle words. Use the non-dominant hand to pet and stroke him as you guide his face up. With the other hand, give the pill, whether it’s wrapped in food or tucked deep into his mouth. Stroke his throat to help the pill go down (you can even squirt a little water from a syringe).

No matter what technique you try and whether it’s a success or a failure at first, the most important thing to remember is that cats can and do learn. Even if your cat acts like he’s been mortally offended, he will, eventually, forgive you. He might even remind you when it’s pill time.

For more info: More tips on technique

© Leah McClellan

I’ve never had any kind of a pig—pot bellied or otherwise—as a household pet. However, I did grow up around pigs (domestic pigs, the kind raised for meat), and I’m quite willing to testify on their behalf.

Pigs are smart, cute, and fun to watch as they go about their business. They aren’t dirty or smelly unless their pens aren’t kept clean, but that’s the responsibility of people, not pigs. Pigs do, however, eat like pigs, which is to say they love to eat, and they aren’t very dainty about it. As omnivores, they’ll eat just about anything, though the domestic pigs my parents raised mostly ate specially-prepared pig gruel and plenty of vegetables.

While they’re very friendly—they even seem to laugh and have a lot of fun—it’s not a good idea to try to play with a barnyard pig. Although there are exceptions, the average farm pig isn’t socialized around humans, and a large pig (150 pounds or more) can actually be dangerous, especially around kids.

Pot bellied pigs, on the other hand, make great pets, and their popularity hasn’t surprised me in the least. Since they were first introduced to the U.S. in the mid-1980s, hundreds of thousands of pot bellied pigs (possibly more) have been adopted as companion animals with good reason: they’re easily trained, extremely intelligent, and very affectionate. Plus, they don’t shed, they don’t bark, they don’t get fleas, they generally don’t cause allergies, and they use a litter box, just like a cat.

But they do get big, and they aren’t maintenance-free. Since they’re so smart, they need plenty of attention, interaction, and training—or they’ll end up training you. They can also become destructive when bored; it’s just natural for pigs to “root” with their noses, whether they’re indoors or out. They need plenty of space, they need exercise, and they have special dietary requirements. They also need a veterinarian who understands pigs.

If you’re thinking about adopting a pot bellied pig, keep two important things in mind. First, check with zoning in your community to see if they’re allowed. Secondly, do plenty of reading and research to make sure a pot bellied pig is the right kind of pet for you. Unfortunately, many pigs have met with unpleasant ends when their humans realized it wasn’t a good match, and, just as with dogs, cats, and other pets, they end up in shelters and worse.

Here are a few good places to start reading about pot bellied pigs.

Pig O’ My Heart Potbellies
Pigs, A Sanctuary
North American Potbellied Pig Association
PIGS4EVER
Pig Placement Network

© Leah McClellan